October 2023 in Italy from Rome to Florence and Venice.
Day 1
We skipped the night through the clouds and our view of the stars was clear with Orion directly in site out the window. I felt like a kid with a blanket over my head to dim the interior lights as I gazed out into the dark. We were off to a magical place and I felt open and curious about everything around me.
Arriving at the seaside airport we could see mediterranean waves wash up on the Italian sand. How exciting!
There was a mistake on our names for the pick up driver at the airport so we waited and waited until they sorted it out. We were then delivered ahead of time to check in so we freshened up in the hotel Regio lobby washroom and away we went.
We made our way to the Hop On Hop Off bus pick up to ride around the city and for the first couple of hours it was wow wow wow. Ancient walls, ruins and familiar fountains dot the sunshine day and we quickly become comfortable with the open air double-decker bus for the first of many trips around the city of Rome. We tried to listen to the headset but after awhile I wanted to just take it all in without.
The fountain in Piazza della Repubblica was beautifully captured from this vantage point and the street views took in the tops of the buildings more predominantly than if we were walking. Capturing the detailed and sculpted architectural design was inspiring and I imagine drawing and painting the scenes myself.
The tour took us to the top of the entrance of Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica and it was from Piazza to Piazza and basilica to basilica that the bus would travel.
The drive around the Colosseum was amazing and the first glance of the Roman Forum area gave me goosebumps. We are in for a truly epic journey when we start to walk these sites tomorrow.
Lunch was near the Piazza Barberini with pictures of me by the smaller fountain and our lunch on the busy street leading to it. We walked around a bit and hopped back on the bus for the rest of the day.
We were looking for a quick and light dinner because we knew sleep was important so let's not stuff ourselves with pasta! We walked down the street from our hotel and found a lovely spot where a huge display of fish was our welcome into the canvas covered tables with divisions of hanging lights. A small charcuterie board and focaccia was the perfect fix while we watched the waiter show off platefuls of fish to the family that followed us in.
With little sleep and the time zone change I was expecting to retire early but we kept going until our usual bedtime and I think it helped to settle us in to a routine.
Day 2
Familiar with where to go to start our day, we were on the bus with the intention of meeting up with our guide to tour the Vatican after checking out some of the sites on our list.
We see the Bath Houses and the Palazzo della Repubblica with the fountain again. We see the
Museo Nationale Romano building and the Castro Pretoiro neighbourhood streets tha lead to the
Palazzo delle Esposizioni with open steps and a statue roofline.
We pass through the Esquilino area streets with 2 triangle buildings and came across armed guards at the entrance to an Embassy building.
Piazza della Bocca della Verita included Tempio di Portuno built beside the oldest stone bridge across the Tiber River and adjacent to the Boarium or cattle market associated with Hercules. A round version must have been for outdoor use. Fountain of the Titans looked dry and I wondered at the expense and organization needed to manage such antiquities we've seen.
Circus Maximus was undergoing a set up for a modern event with workmen constructing huge canopies and temporary buildings. I wonder what event? (We found out later it was for Bruce Springsteen)
Across the Tiber you could see the remains of palatial residences of ruling families years ago.
We took a happy shot on the steps of the Basilica de Santa Maria in Aracoeli where I have my favourite shot I will try to paint and the shot of Gary on his cell phone with Caesar.
In the centre courtyard of this magnificent palazzo is a bronze of Caesar on his horse and the Fountain of the goddess Roma with other statues of Caesar.
Capitaline Hill and Roman Forum is the name of the area as we could see into the acreage below what would have been bustling with roman energy centuries ago.
What we could see from the horizon inward was abundant in design, glory and doom. Rows and rows of ruins on the hillside with just enough room for the public road to flow through. The colour of mud and stone layer upon layer with just a spot of red and blue banners. We see it is a group of protesters that would be heard throughout the city later today.
Vittoriano is the name given to the adjacent complex with stairs to platforms that house the statues and views of the city. The Basilica with a ceiling of gold, red and blue like medal shapes and silver grey pillars with gold framed round pictures at the tops was beyond impressive. Everything is beyond what you could imagine.
Slight colour of pink and baby blue with gold and wood alter. Tiny candles burn for Madonna and babe.
The floor is old cross shape with crude stone inlay.
Vittoriana has the the tomb of the unknown soldier and after climbing the multiple stairways the view was exquisite dotted with domes and bell towers.
We exited our stop and walked the bridge over the Tiber with masses of other tourists on the way to the Vatican. The castle was a destination we did not make but marked the residence of royals long ago.
Piazza Pio X11 shot of us in front of the Vatican entrance – It's so massive. Lunch was a delicious quick sandwich before the Vatican in an open local square.
We easily met up with "Simon" our guide and a few other international travellers and with a connected headset we join the line into the Vatican.
The size of the infamous pine cone statue is grossly overstated and although I wasn't able to touch it I gazed for some time as Simon told stories of old and what to expect here.
Above is the group of Laocoon and his sons being strangled by sea serpents, an original Hellenistic work of 3 sculptors from the 1st century BC, found in 1506 on the Esquiline Hill. We could not get anywhere near this statue and I had to jump up on to a bench to get this shot.
Another 1st century Hellenistic fragment is the infamous Belvedere Torso. It sits atop a lion skin and was thought to portray Hercules byt he greatest Renaissance artists Michelangelo and Rapheal.
There were horses on the floor, intricately designed and the ceiling looked like cameos in multitude. The next room is the Map Room in gold, red and blue ceiling with the maps looking more like tapestry, hanging heavy on the walls in the design of districts and regions throughout the country.
The Sistine Chapel was small with 2 rooms divided by a mesh gate up top. My eye took me around the room with each figure but it was hard to even describe the ceiling and all the intricate parts of it.
We went back to St Peter's Square and into St Peter's Basilica which was a magnificent walk in itself. The domes went beyond the ceiling and they reflected more golden light than I've ever seen.
Just inside the door we see the statue of Madonna with Jesus in her arms which had been attacked with a hammer so they had to build a plexiglass around it.
Drinking fountains dotted the city everywhere and it must feel good to know that those looking after basic needs have this one figured out. The system must be huge but also ancient. How do they keep this working so well?
We found the Trevi Fountain before dinner so the sun was at an eye inspiring angle as we sat and took it all in. Again we were shoulder to shoulder with so many other tourists, it was surreal. We had dinner at a cafe on the square Barbini and it was lovely. So many good aromas and tastes are always making it difficult to choose from the menu.
Day 3
Onto the bus early in the day and finally got a picture of the Wall beside our stop Biglietteria Palatino. We walk through the Roman Forum, Colosseum and Palantine Hill.
Had our rain jackets with us, started to walk up the hill where people paid to get in and we kept going beyond that spot thinking it would be a dead end soon. We kept going and it took us to a most magical place. Further up we climbed the road leading up and with not many people around it was quiet and peaceful. We soon began to realize there was a chapel here and someone was offering tours when he had enough people show up. How nice to only have 6 in our group as he lead us through the tiny chapel and into the room where the resident priests regularly come to gather.
The ceiling was similar to others we had seen with false shadows to make them look three dimensional.
We were led into Chiesa di San Sebastiano al Palatino complete with vineyards, beautiful grounds and our guide showed us the view with lush plants, orange and lime trees and turtles in the fountain. I love the roofline intersection with the lemon trees and I make note and lots of pictures for reference soon to paint one day.
We took pictures of the Colleseum at every possible angle as we walked around, but I was not inspired to enter. We imagined the size of the events they would have and how they would set up security and entrance doors compared to modern concerts. It topped off our day to see this magnificent piece of architecture.
The Arch of Constantine with a slice of the Colosseum ended up being our subject to paint on my return to the online classes I host. It gives me great pleasure to replicate the texture of stone and years of use that we can only imagine the conversations these walls have heard. This trip really opened me up to travel art and how I'm inspired by seeing the world.
On the road and past the Circus Maximus where we see them setting up for something we later find out is Bruce Springsteen.
We pass a building on Piazza della Chiesa Nuova and I start taking pictures of doors. We were walking through the neighbourhood to Piazza Navona and came across Chiesa of San Salvatore in Lauro basilica so we went in. What a lovely place for the neighbours to meet.
3 huge fountains and a beautiful basilica we spent some time here walking around and finally sat to eat. The fountains were magnificent as we toured around each one taking note of the active display. People watching was great too. Very busy place. We stopped into the tourist gift shop for tshirts and bookmark, bag. Lunch was on the square with pizza and salad.
Off to the Spanish Steps at Piazza di Spagna, located in a posh neighbourhood with all the high end shops lining the streets to the steps. Shoulder to shoulder people, sunny and warm.
We visited the Trinita dei Monti with it's quaint collection of art and decoration.
Ended up finding the Metro and after witnessing an altercation of pick pockets, we wondered how safe the park might be as we meandered our way, picking up gelato on the way to Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore. This time we went in. The ceiling was multiple squares of brass and gold and the floor held the inlay pattern of huge circles. It was more impressive than expected as the surrounding neighbourhood seemed a little rough. We came outside to see a beautiful rainbow against the dark sky. It was quite the sight and we marvelled and walked to catch our bus.
Last meal in Rome was just down the street from our hotel at alla Braccoleria where we enjoyed dolce after a long day. Off to catch the train tomorrow.
Day 4
After breakfast, we make our way to the railway station to take the train to Florence.
We were a little anxious as we headed into the train station. We read that it was huge and the platform was not announced until 10 minutes before but we found a place to sit and watch the board while making wagers as to which one it might be based on platforms already posted. We had a moment to take our picture of the rail line and train and we look like excited little children as we boarded. Fun!
The landscape held vineyards and old buildings that popped out through the beloved cypress trees lining the horizon. More tuscan region with farms and going concerns yet quiet in the fields.
Made our way to the hotel and then onward to meet our guide for the city tour...
We walked through the neighbourhood and picked up a sandwich I think we got ripped off as they were displayed as 2 for 3E and I said only one please. Basilica of the Most Holy Annunciation was our first pic with a market on the square.
Giardino Di Palazzo Medici Riccardi housed the gothic style cathedral where tombs of tuscan leaders lay I would late find out, probably the Medici.
We sat waiting for them to show up and they did finally. We met some other folks and made our way on the e-cart. Our first stop was Piazza Santa Maria Novella with a market and it had a lovely external design with mosaic like circles and swirls.
Into Chiesa di San Salvatore in Ognissanti for a quick look. Exterior looks basic and old with blue half circle over the door for the only colour. Interior dark grey colours with smaller width and ceiling all one painting. Dome and alter were beautifully painted and the chapels were colourful and light, given the subject matter of birth, prosecution and ascension.
Courtyard and external paintings and the style of the rooms went way back in time. Sandro Botticelli and Amerigo Vespucci after whom America was named rests here. Sandro's beloved Simonetta also here.
I took a few pictures across the river as we bopped in the cart around and then over the bridge Ponte Santa Trinita to see Ponte Vechio. I start to notice the doors and the inlay stone road as the original surface made eons ago.
To the Pitti Palace that housed the most lavish renaissance decorations you could image. We didn't go in but put it on the list to check it out. Also here are the Boboli Gardens, I'm sure a quite amazing tour.
Around a very lovely neighbourhood called Gavinana Galloozzo with mansions and big wrought iron gates and colours of ancient clay and sand.
Made our way to Piazza Michelangelo with views over the city and river bridges – so beautifully ancient. Back down around the fountain over the wall of the roads and through the tunnels bursting out into a lush green natural fountain. This I want to paint!
We came across the Bibliotech Library, then into the Piazza San Firenze Square with a white and pink like facade with tower behind. We came around to where a ferris wheel had people playing and taking pictures. We could see the overwhelming outline of the Duomo Tower and church where we would experience Mass tomorrow. We spend some time here both days sitting on the edge of the movement of foot traffic and watched the people going by. We felt the enormous energy of this site in all it's glory.
Beyond again how I might describe the beauty and complexity of this design. It is mind boggling. The intricacies and detail take your eye into the depths of it with full size figures mounted all around. If you chance it, you can climb to the top of the dome. We did not due to injuries experienced before the trip. Filipo Brushcuello is designer and creator I believe and the Bell Tower is by Giotto.
We did not do either the tower or the dome but felt the awe in the creation of this place. The sun fell across the surface of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and we made our way out of the piazza for some pizza!
We found a cute little place called Collage and they weren't calling us in which was a good sign. They had the best lasagna and rocket with tomatoes that it made me feel we finally got off the beaten path. It has not been easy. There were 3 pictures of Marilyn Munroe within site of our seats. LOL How many more might be inside I'm not sure.
Got checked into our hotel late and took a picture of the full moon out the window.
Day 5
Modern hotel means a light and easy to take breakfast spread with huge amounts of cheese, eggs, sweet things and fruit along with coffee. Is 3 cappuccino enough to get me through the day?
We walked down to the river and found a lovely day with locals about going on with life as we marvelled at the beautiful view of villas and trees across the Arno river.
We came upon the library we saw on the tour and they wouldn't let us in. Strange that they couldn't do that. What's in there???
We were so in awe of the beautiful day and walked and walked taking in the sites and feeling the slower pace we just had in Rome. This felt like we were on vacation from a stressful few days.
The sky is blue and the river seemed to reflect a lovely essence of the colours and vibrations off the covered bridge Ponte Vecchio.
We walked intuitively and Gary found a Ferrari display of cars at a local garage. It was fun to see him enjoy that.
Walking onto Ponte Vecchio was crowded and very active. We took some pictures and marvelled at how the stalls and stores were put together with huge steel locks and wooden planks. So primitive but a perfect centre for the shops of gold, silver and precious stone jewellery. What fun to see their displays.
We come upon Relias Piazza Signoria, Florence's outdoor sculpture gallery of statues mostly of action poses, lions and a fountain outside the entrance to the museum.
The statue with head in hand was Perseus with the head of Medusa, a bronze sculpture by Benevento Cellini 1545 – 1554.
(Hercules holds Cacus by the hair in the statue at the doorway of the Vecchio Palace)
Neptune Fountain with mythical creatures was impressive.
Lots of area to check out with a walk into Vecchio Palace with an indoor courtyard and marble doorways showcasing more statues and art. Columns of cameo white and gilded gold and delicately painted ceiling of regal colours. I felt compelled to place my hand on a door after noticing so many along our travels. It's hard to describe the feelings and visions that constantly go through my head in this place. Ancient and mysterious.
Outside is the lion with head in mouth statue. Who was that? They were holding a baby...
The panels inside showed maps and panel art with a statue of an angel black in the centre.
Francesco Vezzoli's La Pieta had a courtyard statue of a lion with the head of a Roman in it's mouth, massive and it turns out at Medici's request.
The statues flanking the doorway were impressive but not original and gave us a glimpse of what David might look like tomorrow. Many statues of the famous artists lined the Uffizi gathering area and we came into the front entrance so it seemed pretty straight forward for our tour.
Right close by is the museum for Galileo Galilei where we went through the gift shop only. We tried to figure out the sundial outside and it was interesting with the bird on top.
It seemed to take into consideration all the zodiac signs and to me it looked like it was pointing to Pisces. I didn't figure it out.
Found our way to Basilica de Santa Trinita and a good place for lunch. I love the textures in the walls and doorways, the iron built gates. So enchanting. We walked past the statue of the bore where everyone was on top of it, kissing it, taking pictures. We walked on by. Pizza and salad for lunch.
Little more cloud now but the river still seem to reflect the colours and design. Our walkabout brought us to the Pitta Palace and we spend some time sitting and reflecting. This now houses some of the most palatial rooms complete with period decor which we had not planned to see. It was only open for the Boboli gardens but we did not venture in and continued on our way after resting. Gary posed by the brick on the wall so thick it was menacing.
We come to Piazza Santo Spirito with a Spanish like facade and continued further until we were at the Cathederal del Doumo again. We wanted to see when Mass was going to be. We thought it would be an interesting experience. First a drink!
Gary found a place with a deal for steak which was excellent but my pasta was a little al dente for me. I wanted to taste the pepper and cheese recipe I'd heard about but both times I was disappointed. This would be something I could try at home.
Day 6
We had until 11:15 to make our way to the museum so we checked out Basilica di Santa Croce with a statue and 2 lions at the door. The delicate design was similar to the Duomo.
We had tickets for a 2 hour tour of Uffizi so back to the square with the merry go round and into the gallery we went along with a million other people. I had tears in my eyes when we came onto the Venus paintings and saw that others were feeling the same. This is what I came to know was here. Wow. Others were the same. So happy my camera was so good to capture these amazing works of art.
We came into a room where we could see the pouring rain outside. We sure timed this visit for the best day. The stone inlay table top was mind boggling. The panels and the rooms were exquisite in every way.
View of the Medici Villa was interesting. I don't recall it from the series but I'm so happy I watched it again before this trip. It gave me a better understanding of the times.
The statue of Caesar the child will be a study for my class I decided and the profile of Duke of Urbino in black hair and red head dress would be too.
There were so many statues to take pictures of but my favourites were the self portraits, Madussa and of course David where we sat for awhile just staring in awe. Oh and Venus.
The Prisoners gallery was where the statues were half done – prisoners of the clay we were told. Galleries of sculptures row upon row lined this area and I could feel how the art is sensual and inviting to gaze upon. It's very captivating.
A very intricate tree of life with so much information, I read about Jesus and the tree of life and look forward to reading more. The museum of musical instruments was fun and I imagine the bands they would have back then.
Found a great spot for dinner about half way home where they were showing off their fresh mushrooms and artichokes. A fun evening was had over a bottle of Roggiano red, dolce and all.
Waiters were showing off mushrooms and artichoke so I tried an artichokes salad which apparently is quite a treat when they mature this time of year. Lovely light dressing with the heart sliced thin, it was topped with parmesan I believe.
Day 7
Lovely Tuscan landscape as we make our way to Venice by train. Our hotel is conveniently close to the train station so all we had to do was enjoy the walk and 3 minutes later, we're there! A quaint renaissance feel with chandeliers and painted door panels up and down the stairs to our room, we left our bags in the unmade room and off we go to tour around and find some lunch.
A cute little seafood place caught our eye and we treated ourselves to a local fav and a sampling of Cichetti with tuna/avocado, gorgonzola and mozza cheese. What fun to sit on the quiet canal somewhere in Venice.
Our Vaporetto water taxi worked well after we figured out the system. It took us everywhere and we decided to get on and have a look around.
Areas we covered were Canale de Cannaregio, Rio di San Girolamo, Rio della Misericordia, S Marcuola Casino to Canal Grande, Rialto Bridge and then San Marco.
In San Marco Square, We sat where the music was and ordered some gelato which came on a big fancy tray. Not too much $$ but certainly enough. They could probably make a killing if it were not so expensive. Who are they attracting?
The square, the cathedral, the tower all amazing and much as expected really. The bell tower with the clock was interesting as we discussed the way the 24 hours work. And we found the winged lion everywhere as a representative of Venice itself. The 2 brass tower men could be seen banging on the bells as intervals as the big numbers changed every 5 minutes.
The Dogo's palace was so beautiful with it panels and arches, pointed bits, flowers and mosaic design. The deep blue sky was a perfect back drop for the white and sand colours to really shine. The intricacy of the cathedral rivalled the Duomo's in Florence and again sitting in the presence of these vast structures was powerful beyond measure.
We found ourselves in line for an elevator ride to the top of the tower Campamile di San Marco and when better to view the skyline than sunset. This was not planned but jumped upon the opportunity when we came across the easy 10 Euro cost and no exercise needed.
To look down on the surrounding tower and cathedral roof line was magnificent. A whole different view at the time of the best light and reflection. This could not have been timed better as the moon rose just opposite of the setting sun. We stayed until we felt guilty staying any longer a full hour to be clear.
The midnight blue sky leant itself well to show off more of these incredible designs along with the moon shining in the background. Gondalas along the water bobbed as we headed toward the Vaporetto station. The buildings on the Grand canal showed off beautifully as we passed the dimly lit beauties.
Our fun bedroom was functional and larger than in the past. It had beams in the ceiling, a gilded gold headboard and a view over the Venice rooftops. We put more clothes on and went to find our dinner spot. Just a few doors down from the hotel a signed boasted Grand Canal terrace so let's have a look!
Delicious looking dishes surrounded us on our neighbour's tables and we ordered a full meal with wine.
As the night went on there were murmurings about how the tide was rising. Oh this might be interesting so close to the full moon. That's when the tides are highest! Sure enough the water started to lap onto the terrace when the waves pushed in from boats passing by and before we knew it we were the last remaining table close to the water. We finished off our meal raising our feet every time the wave came in.
The meal was perfect and even with this exciting addition to it, we enjoyed it throughly like it was a tourist attraction. Eat your dinner as the water splashes in. My carbanara was rich almost too much but the wine helped to balance it out. We found the Rialto bridge on the way home and an accordion player with the romantic background of Italian music. The moon was out and we were feeling pretty good with ourselves, finding this wonderful place to be.
Day 8
The coffee room was very bright and we filled ourselves with coffee and food, ready for another day in this beautiful place. We found out that the island of Murano could be reached with our Vaporetto tickets so off we go to see the glass factories once banished to these islands after years of polluting the city within.
Murano is the closest island and seems very quiet after the crowds on the mainland. We had tickets for a small tour but we expected it to be a little bit touristy. I found it entertaining and I liked seeing the artisans at work even though the salesman was rude to us on the way out.
We decided to venture over to Burano and just arrived to find a great spot for lunch and I had the best seafood lasagna ever! Burano has multi coloured buildings of pink, yellow, reds, blues and purples so it makes for lovely pictures and backdrop. What a lovely place. We found ourselves walking the backyards of the locals with laundry hanging and fishermen working on their boats.
We saw the main tower of the village was leaning and wondered how many other towers might be in this predicament. The way home was lovely passing by islands with ancient buildings and gardens once tended by priests I'm sure.
We passed San Michele before we approached mainland Venezia and covered more of the same area. We hopped off and walked through Rio dei Gesuiti, a wine making shop and stamp making printer in Cannaregio, a flower shop, bakery and a well complete with iron cover in a small courtyard.
Up onto the Rialto for a few more pictures and stops. We notice where the gondaliers are parked for tomorrow. We come across Chiesa di Sant'Aponal then back on the Vaporetto to see how much more ground we could cover. San Marc's from the water was lovely and we enjoyed another night time cruise on the canal.
Day 9
Gondola first thing was fun and I played background Italian music as we were guided under the bridges on the smaller canals. Back into the Grand right at the Rialto was a delightful surprise and well worth the romantic feel they seem to emit. We went past Maro Polo's place – a bridge named after him.
Afterwards, we made our way over the bridge and to the market we could see from the water. They sold all kinds of veggies and we picked out a Mission fig I envisioned munching on in the sunshine on our break somewhere. It was in my pocket for longer than anticipated but it was delicious when we finally stopped.
After a walk along the water on the other side of San Marc's we found a place to eat delicious pizza and enjoyed the hot sun beaming down on us. It was super busy with people. Rio dei Greci, we took pictures of the Last View Bridge from the courtroom to the prison, the trek of many criminals over the years, stopping for their last view of freedom.
Decided to walk around the square and checke out the shops, cafe and all the art in between with jewellery, glass and then through courtyards and cafes.
We walked a bit and ended up at Campo Santi Giovanni E Paolo, a brick cathedral and a white building I think may have been residences. We did not venture in but felt like it was local traffic.
Back on the vaporetto for our last run until the 48 hour tickets ran out we found ourselves almost where we wanted to be.
A walk through the neighbourhood felt safe as we made our way along a university and school to a cafe for a drink. Lovely lady knew I was going to ask her for chips which she brought to us promptly. I felt like I wanted to stay and get to know her. Wish we could stay for dinner – it looked amazing but we weren't hungry yet. Dinner was a place not far from the hotel and although Gary had a good dish, I was not happy with mine.
A walk to the water for some shots of the full moon ended our night and I felt as though we had a wealth of gifts to head home with. Lovely aha moments and realizations about life flowed through this trip and although the art attracted me, there was so much more learning of the history of this great country and how diverse the many areas are. I truly wish to return one day.
Day 10
After fawning over the sleek wooded boats that dart through the water traffic, we got to spend our last few moments in Venice aboard this beauty to connect with our taxi to the airport. This day brings us to our flight home that ended up being carefree and easy. This Italian adventure has given us joy and adventure and the little bit of art inspired I was hoping for. It comes out in my future works and feel grateful for all that it brings.